Guide for New Hardwood Buyers
Buying hardwood lumber isn’t difficult, but for new woodworkers it can seem a bit intimidating. Just follow these easy guidelines, and you’ll be driving back to your shop with your first order of wood in no time! And remember, if you have any questions, just ask us. We're happy to help!
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If you’re going to talk hardwoods, you've got to know the lingo! Here are a few terms to be familiar with before you buy.
Side note: Before we get into vocabulary, it's important to note that boards and part dimensions are listed in the order of thickness × width × length (ex: 2" x 4" x 8'). If you’re confused between width and length, follow the grain; its direction always indicates length. That goes for plywood too!
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Common
Terms
Quarters--Rough lumber thickness is specified in Quarters. 4/4 (pronounced "4-quarter".) is one inch thick in the rough, 5/4 = 1-1/4", 6/4 = 1-1/2", and 8/4 = 2" thick.
The Hardwood Grading Bureau allows 1/4" to be removed from the thickness (typically 1/8 on top & 1/8 on bottom) to allow it to be clean on both faces. So 4/4 will finish at 3/4". 8/4 will finish at 1-3/4".
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​FAS--FAS (Firsts and Seconds) meaning the worst face of a board was FAS and the back was FAS or Better. Today, lumber is FAS-1F, meaning Firsts and Seconds One Face. The back is usually worse. An FAS-1F board should be 89% clear and usable. Sapwood is not considered a defect.
In addition, you will also see some lumber (such as Cypress) graded as Select & Better (SEL & BTR), this is basically the same as FAS but it allows for boards to be a min of 4" wide, while FAS is min 6" wide (honestly, this gets cheated down to about 5.5" nowadays). FAS and SEL & BTR allow knots and defects. The grade is actually specified as the percent of clear material in a board.
​​​Moisture Content--You have probably read articles that say you should check the moisture content before you buy your lumber. If it is not 7%, don't buy it. Kiln dried lumber is dried to a moisture content of 6-7% and then a shot of steam is injected into the kiln to slightly raise the moisture content and stress-relieve the lumber. This does help to relieve the majority of the stress.
When the lumber leaves the mill and ships to Phoenix, Arizona, it will probably be at 7% MC. When it comes to Florida it will rise to 8.5-9.5% MC. The MC in our lumber is typically 9% depending on the weather. The MC will change from your workshop into your a/c home pretty rapidly. It is not a real issue unless you are working with some air dried lumber that has not dried enough.
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Calculating
Board Footage
Board footage--All hardwood lumber is sold by the board foot (bf) and figured by rough thickness.
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One board foot (bf) equals 144 cubic inches of lumber.
Using the formula shown on the illustration, a board that is 1.5" thick x 6.25" wide x 96" long will calculate to 6.3 bf.
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Planning
Your Project
Just like the examples in your favorite wood magazine or the plans you've downloaded from the internet, you'll need a materials list and a cutting plan.
A materials list is a defined list of parts you'll need to cut for your project. It's a necessary step in part-layout, and--at the very least--will help you determine your board requirements. By looking at the list, and by grouping like pieces together based on thickness and/or width, you'll arrive at your board needs... For example, 3 boards at 4/4 x 6" x 96"; 1 board at 6/4 x 8" x 108", etc. Often, marking boards with chalk (we'll loan you a piece) can help you--quite literally--map out a successful cutting plan.
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Then, if needed, we can rough cut your boards for to fit in your vehicle (not to project size) for free.
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When you head out to see us, just be sure to bring your materials list, a tape measure and your calculator! Then you'll be able to figure up the material you're buying on the spot.
Need a Hand Preparing
Your Lumber Order?
Remember, wood is an organic material, so not every piece is going to be perfect right off the rack. Many boards will have checking (cracks on the ends of the board) and/or wane (bark or the absence of wood due to the shape of the tree). And that's ok. Imperfections can be worked out during milling.
You may have the time and equipment to mill your lumber order yourself, If not, this is where our shop's services can really help you out. Here's what you need to know:
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S2S--This is a planing pass, top, and bottom. Usually, after running a 4/4 board S2S, it will come in at a smooth 3/4" thick. But S2S can also take a board down to almost any thickness required. The sides of the board will still be rough and need additional milling to be suitable for gluing.
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S3S--After running a board S2S, the board is jointed on one edge to make the edge straight and smooth. This creates three surfaced sides. You'll need to rip the board to your desired width, and possibly add a join edge.
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S4S--Just like S3S, then the board is ripped to width on the fourth edge and jointed for a smooth edge.
Costs for each service can be found on our price sheet. The savings in your time, labor and equipment to prepare the wood, may be worth it for your project.